On Barden Moor bah Bike

It's been a while since I was up on Barden Moor - not so far from Ilkley's Tat - and like so many bridleways, since I last rode the track, things have been 'improved' again. It makes what was a fast track, faster still, but has removed many short 'interesting' bits. A shame. And I'm not sure what the resurfacing has achieved overall as sections of singletrack remain unsurfaced and boggy while 200 yards on, a hard rocky section has been levelled. All very odd. I wonder who, if anyone, was consulted on the changes to this and many other rights of way whose character has been altered beyond recognition.

Still, a beautiful close to the day. And perhaps it will warm up sometime soon too. Felt more like a raw March afternoon this evening.

Handa Island

Handa Island, not so far south from Cape Wrath, has been a trip I have wanted to complete for many years. It was always one I was happy to leave for a good day, a day when it would possible to get in close beneath the gargantuan cliffs and specifically the Great Stack of Handa. The day started full of promise but it was not to be.

Starting the trip from the head of Loch Laxford, the first few kilometres felt familiar though it was 2008 when I paddled here last.

Approaching the mouth of the sea loch, Ardmore point beyond and the long ridge of Fionáven just visible to the far right. Another objective - for a winter traverse - that has remained on the to-do list for too long.

Chris turns Rubha Ruadh, picking up a very gentle swell - conditions apparently settled and ideal for our run around Handa.

The first view of Handa's northern cliffs, but something else has caught Tim's eye...

...a deep recess in the cliffs...

...deeper than initial appearances suggest and the first cave of the trip.

We continued south along this rugged shoreline, heading for the islands that form the Dorus Mór - big door - a term that is self explanatory when the tide is running.

Beached on the south-eastern extremity of Handa...

...looking towards the point of Stoer and its Old Man. Standing on the small headland, a fresh and cold breeze was noticeable and I knew what would follow.

Heading west from our sheltered beach, a beam wind strengthened as we crossed the bay, passing Glas Leac...

...and running through the more sheltered channels...

...beneath the imposing sandstone walls of Handa. A tall, dark entrance drew us in, revealing a cavernous opening, the roof washed smooth by huge swells.

It was the last image I would take for some time. Emerging from the cave the wind appeared to have freshened again and with the tide now running against it, the seas steepened sharply. The swell remained low, perhaps 3ft at its height while crossing back to Rubha Ruadh, but the boisterous wind blown chop forced a concerted effort and concentration. The 5km crossing with a F5 wind on the bow soon turned into a slog, things easing briefly as we entered Loch Laxford once again.

Tucking into a tiny cove and a different world at the mouth of the loch, we rested briefly in the sun before heading back through the islands. The wind, now funnelling down the loch picked up notch further and the return trip was a simple contest of strength. An unpleasant end to a spectacular paddle, which remains on the list then, to complete in more gentle conditions.

Mocking our earlier exertions, evening calm and a beautiful sunset looking across Scourie Bay to the southern edge of Handa.

Torridon Tour part Two

After riding the Torridon Tour as I rather unimaginatively called it, over the Easter break, I was keen to try a variation of the route cutting out most of the road sections and all of the forest fire roads, exchanging both for the descent of Coire Lair.

It means climbing to Bealach na Lice from Annat but much of the ascent is surprisingly rideable...

...the gradient perfect for a fast run down on the return leg, but gentle enough to stay in the saddle for much of the climb.

The sandstone slabs help...

...as does the view.

Gravelly singletrack winds its way up and on towards Loch an Eion with few interruptions...

...save a river crossing...

...and the odd boggy patch beyond the lochs.

Once past the bealach things get a little tougher - the riding tricky...

...and the first carries begin.

Yet there are still moments of brilliance...

...before the last pull up into Corrie Grannda...

...and the last carry to reach the day's high point at around 700m, all of which has been climbed from sea level.

Things improve rapidly...

...and the long descent - more than 7km of technical riding - reaches out towards the hills above Achnashellach.

Loose in places...

...fast in others, it's one of the best...

...culminating in a flourish through the forest above Loch Dughaill.
Stops for the view, stops for flats, stops for photos, and other stops because sometimes it's good just to stop and take it all in, meant it was getting on a bit. No more stops then. Apart from one before the bothy for a feed.

Back at Bealach na Lice, losing the light...

...but with just enough to enjoy the wild descent to Annat.

At approximately 35km, The Tour part Two is a shorter ride than the first, but with over 1500m of ascent and a significantly higher proportion of technical riding, a tougher proposition overall, the descent of Corrie Lair to Achnashellach one of the biggest and best I have ridden yet.

Edge of the Sea

There are some climbs which quite simply, stand out from the crowd. Routes whose moves are remembered in vivid detail; a wrinkled slab, flared crack or hollow flake as familiar in the mind's eye as it was on the day it was climbed. Sometimes a route is remembered simply for its exposure or difficulty, but often it is more subtle.

Edge of the Sea is like that. Balanced, delicate moves that rise diagonally across a perfect slab, reaching towards the sea beyond an abrupt arête. It is an easy climb, and one which I have ascended on countless occasions, usually solo. It was also the first route I climbed at Reiff which in itself will always make it special. This time I was happy to place a couple of wires, protection a substitute for the old confidence.

With the last few moves and a final rock-over I felt the old thrill of fluid movement on sound rock.

We managed half a dozen routes between light showers before the rain set in, including another old favourite - Puckered Wall, a delightfully juggy VS - but still, Edge of the Sea is the route I will see first when I think of Reiff.

Pied and gone to heaven

Complex weather systems made this last week a difficult one in which to make any firm plans but there were sufficient windows to enjoy all that is best about the north-west.

A bright a breezy day heading out of Loch Laxford bound for Handa Island. Later, strong winds made for a lumpy crossing on our return from the north west corner of the island to the mouth of Loch Laxford which was followed by a brutal slog back to the river mouth. Handa has been on my to-do list for many years and it was gratifying to have rounded the island but it is one to return to in more gentle conditions.

Another bright morning gave way to a dull afternoon and some damp rock at Reiff, but the climbing on the cliffs here remains as good as it ever was. We completed half a dozen routes before the rain set in, all of which I had climbed in years past but rediscovering the lines on this superbly positioned crag was a real joy.

The best of the weather was found in Torridon. Above, enjoying the sandstone slabs with the long ridge of Liathach beyond. Our route, which took in the 7km descent of Coire Lair and the well known descent from Bealach na Lice to Annat, is a big day out by anyone's standards and offers some of the best mountain biking I have enjoyed yet.
But ultimately, this was always going to be a more relaxed trip, our attention drawn more than once, by a particular counter in Lochinver.
The headline, I have to admit, is not mine. Taken from a newspaper cutting framed in the shop however, it seemed more than apt for a superb week of biking, climbing and kayaking.

And pies.