Outer Hebrides: Beyond Great Bernera - Day1

Throughout our crossing of the Sound of Harris the previous day the weather had steadily improved until by late evening, the makings of a fine sunset held the promise of a fine spell to follow. We were not disappointed. Driving north from Leverbergh on a fine morning, there can be few who manage not to stop; certainly our journey was delayed more than once by the indescribable beauty of the beaches and islands the road passes.
Eventually we arrived at Bhaltos, not far from Gallan Head, in the north west of Lewis. Standing amongst the dunes above Traigh na Beirigh, we looked across white sands and clear shallow waters surrounding the inner islands, towards the deep blue of the Atlantic...
With the boats loaded for two days amongst the rugged outlying islands of Lewis, we launched, following the curve of the beach...
...heading for the northern tip of Fuaidh Mor.
Already the westerly swell was making itself felt, though for now it was gentle enough to allow for some entertaining rock hopping...
...with half an eye open for the bigger sets.
Heading north along the west coast of Great Benera we explored the craggy shore in detail, until passing inside the small island of Greineam...
...we emerged behind a large reef being hammered by the swell.
In the chop behind the reef, I watched in awe as waves crashed beyond sending foaming cascades across the dark rock, spray flying, showering the boats.
It was a wonderful display and awe inspiring when the benign conditions of the day, in comparison to those of a big sea, were acknowledged.
We dallied awhile before heading north again...
...beneath the clean, wave washed cliffs of gneiss, before rounding the north west point of Great Benera as the light began to fail. We had intended to camp on Benera Beg but the steep boulder beach of our chosen site seemed far less appealing than the white sands of Bostadh and so we turned in, landing easily in this sheltered bay...
...for a superbly situated camp...
...and a 5 star view from the tent.
Having visited the replica Iron Age house, unfortunately locked (not with an Iron Age replica)...
...we watched the sunset beyond the islands of Flodaigh, Bearasaigh and Seana Chnoc; charismatic names to capture the spirit of this wild place, the rugged edge of the Atlantic.

Comments